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Страны проведения марафонов

Аляска

29.09.2013

Олег Петров

13 комментариев

Фотогалерея (3)

«Белый клык», «Время-не-ждет», «Смок и Малыш»  …. Я зачитывался Джеком Лондоном в 14 лет.  Когда выпала возможность и мы стали готовиться к поездке на Аляску, я перечитал заново. С учетом прожитых 46 лет и пройденных марафонов это было совершенно новое восприятие. «На его месте должен быть я…!»

Про историю Аляски писать не буду, мы купили книгу на русском языке с простым названием «АЛЯСКА». Из предварительной подготовки могу отметить еще переписку с организаторами марафона. Я им задавал важные для меня вопросы, получал на них обстоятельные ответы и смешно было посмотреть на месте реалии.

Про первую часть нашего путешествия -  участие в Американ Биркебейнер достаточно подробно писали Вадим Присивко и Анатолий Шелёхин. Поэтому начну со второй части.

Перелет Миннеаполис  - Анккоридж 6 часов, разница времени 3 часа, а с С-Петербургом 12. То что у нас 7 утра там 7 вечера.

В  Анккоридже к 50-летию становления Аляски, как 49 штата Америки, построили великолепный аэропорт. По моему мнению, это самый красивый аэропорт из того что я видел. Разместились в гостинице Sheraton, взгляд с 16-го этажа чем-то напоминал взгляд из гостинцы Арктика в Мурманске J

ГОРОД.

Анккоридж столица Аляски. 300 тыс. жителей. С тех пор как на Аляске нашли газ и нефть, жизнь стала богаче. Город похож на все американские города – стриты, авеню и даунтаун. Простая архитектура, изредка оживляемая модерновыми зданиями музея и концертного зала. Основное туристическое время начинается с мая. Мы планировали взять самолет и облететь вокруг Мак Кинли. Это самая большая вершина Северной Америки - 6200 метров. Не получилось. Погода была нелётная, два дня шел снег и дул ветер.  Вообще история освоения Аляски очень прочно связана с собаками и самолетами. Говорят что на каждые 50 жителей Аляски приходится одна лётная лицензия. Количество частных самолетов десятки тысяч. В городке Талкетна откуда вылетают самолеты к Мак Кинли и на ледники, самолеты стоят во дворах домов.

В период нашего пребывания проходил чемпионат Мира по гонкам на собачьих упряжках. 1000 миль это почти 1600 километров. В упряжке 12 собак, бегут со скоростью более 30 км/час. Организаторы устроили показательный старт в городе. Насыпали на центральной улице снег и сделали раздельный старт. Реальный старт проходил в 40 км. от города.

Лыжная инфраструктура в городе очень развита. Два шикарных парка. Один из которых Kinced park, на самом деле бывшая ракетная база. Ракеты были направлены против СССР. Сейчас это городской парк, с прекрасным рельефом. Из ракетных ангаров сделали раздевалки. Четыре FISовские гомологированные трассы. Общая дистанция около 100 км. Ежедневно готовится ретраком. Да, и на лыжню постоянно выходят лоси. С животными там вообще хорошо, с охотниками на них – плохо.

 

В субботу сходил в Русскую православную церковь, попал на службу. Интересные ощущения, служба проходит на английском языке. Некоторые молитвы читают на старом русском. Народу немного. Говорят на Аляске целые русские поселения, такие как поселок Николаевка. Да и трасса марафона проходит через Russian Jaсk House.

1

ПОДГОТОВКА К МАРАФОНУ.

Походу подготовки выяснилось, что лыжи готовить негде. В отеле сперва сказали что скирума у них нет, а после того как мы показали сайт организаторов марафона, где было сказано что лыжи можно подготовить в отеле, нам выделили.. малый банкетный зал, с круглыми столами под белыми скатертями, и шикарным ковровым покрытиемJ

В результате наших поисков лыжи мы готовили… дома у директора гонки.

 

ПОГОДА.

Анккоридж находится на широте С-Петербурга. Открытый океан и горы, делают климат очень переменчивым. Влажность, невзирая на открытый океан 25-30%. Рекомендации ТОКО на гонку исходили из прогноза -7 и влажность 98%. На самом деле было -16, солнце, и влажность 28%. Готовил ТОКО HF розовый и синий 1:1, порошок DIALAN 0-16, таблетка, накатка… Влетели!

 

ГОНКА.

В марафоне на всех дистанциях – 50, 40, 25, 10 принимало участие около 1700 человек.  Стартовали из 2 волны, Хорошо, что я в отличии от Кирилла Горева, предварительно не смотрел первые 10 км. Это жесть! Нужна альпинистская подготовка для подъёма и горнолыжная для спуска. Лыжи стояли колом. На первом километре Кирилл уехал от меня как «от пустого сарая». Я понял что гонка не задалась и перешел на «ворошиловский шаг». Высоченные ели, едешь по трассе как в коридоре, есть прелесть в тихом ходе, можно на природу полюбоваться. К 10-му километру горная часть закончилась и началась равнина, к своему приятному удивлению догнал Кирилла, лыжи поехали, зацепился за девушкой, которая, как потом стало понятно, заняла первое место. Равнинная часть гонки проходи вдоль океана, в живописном березовом лесу. Едешь и такое ощущение что вдоль Финского залива, только почему-то айсберги плавают. Трасса на протяжении всех 50 километров нигде не пересекает дороги в одном уровне. Либо виадуки, либо туннели, видно что это постоянно действующая трасса. К 30-му километру понял что увлечение девушкой и скоростью даром не прошло -  замерзло питье в Camelback. К 40-му без питья стало грустно. Последние 3 километра снова горная часть. Девушка уехала, меня «подъедают». Впереди знакомый стадион, финишная прямая, сзади кто-то сопит, на всякий случай ускоряюсь. И не зря. Обидел друга Кирилла Горева который мне проиграл 0,4 сек, и занял в нашей возрастной группе 4 место. Это значит у меня 3-е! УРА! Итог: 50 км, 2:40, 37 общее место. Получил бронзовую медаль, причем для Кирилла тоже, пользуясь знакомством с директором гонки.

После финиша познакомился с парнем из России, который занял 12 место. Вообще с русскими, которые живут на Аляске, встречались каждый день.

 

ЛЮДИ.

Американцы очень контактные и дружелюбные люди. Общаться начинают с пол-оборота.  Любят посмеяться и пошутить. Например: вечером сидели с президентом Американ Биркебейнер у него дома, и я для Анатолия Базылевского выцыганил медаль, он в прошлом году принимал участие, а медаль не получил. Скотт (Президент АБ) говорит: - заедешь завтра в рейс-офис получишь медаль. Заезжаю, говорю: - Вам Президент звонил? Хозяйка офиса: - Кто? Барак Обама? Я: - Барак Обама не умеет бегать на лыжах. Зачем ему вам звонить? Ваш президент - Скотт! Смеётся, и выносит медаль,  значит звонил.

И еще. Стоит где-то замешкаться: на заправке, у информационного табло, туже подойдут и спросят чем помочь?

ИТОГ.

 

Для полноты ощущений от Аляски, конечно, нужно побольше время и подальше вглубь. Это все равно как считать себя золотоискателем сидя в салуне Доусона. А хочется ведь через Чилкутский перевал перейти.

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